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» The magic of pink: why are pink diamonds so alluring? » Argyle assets: how are pink diamonds good assets? » Beyond Argyle: where to next in the search for more pink diamonds? » Trends in demand: what makes pink diamonds in demand?
» THE FATHER OF AUSTRALIAN DIAMONDS: A moment with Ewen Tyler
» A TENDER GLANCE: Argyle’s breath-taking treasures
» TIMELINE: A History of Argyle and its Signature Tenders
» WHERE TO NOW: The ongoing quest for pink diamonds
» THE MASTERS OF BEAUTY: Argyle’s Select Ateliers
The colour pink is associated with many things – beauty, love, and femininity, to name a few.
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Yet those numbers, while impressive, almost seem to belie the true miraculousness and scale of the project. At the time, it was equivalent to all of the other major diamond mines combined. The scale of it is incredible; you don’t get a sense of it from photos.”
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» Read more: The Father of Australian Diamonds: A moment with Ewen Tyler That was the first challenge.
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“Additionally, there is no other natural fancy coloured diamond that possesses the colour saturation and the colour palette. Their natural beauty has an almost instant. Global appreciation akin to fine art.
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“Argyle pink and red diamonds display unparalleled colour – those strong hues – and of course there is their rarity. Larry knew from past negotiations with this customer that the person would always bring out comparable stones in order to negotiate down the price.
“There are only a handful of things from Australia that are so treasured throughout the world. Pink diamonds were the country’s ‘hidden gem’ up until 37 years ago and Argyle has achieved the status of the pinnacle in the diamond chain – ultra luxury diamonds.
Chart source: Jeweller analysis, GIA, excludes Petite Suites and Pink Everlastings
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The magic of pink
In the world of fancy colour diamonds, pinks stand apart – partially as a function of rarity and beauty, but also as a result of shrewd promotion. Given that pink is a colour associated with love, life and beauty, and represents everything from a budding spring blossom to the blushing cheeks from a first kiss – everything that we want to cherish for eternity – it hasn’t been difficult to market.
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“Other colour diamonds go through moments where they are ‘commercial fads’, and demand ebbs and flows with promotions and designers creating new pieces.”
He adds, “Yellow diamonds are easily accessible and affordable in larger sizes than pinks, but they have not been fully marketed to the public. Therefore, they are rarely promoted or marketed, except via special auctions. Blue diamonds are even rarer than pinks, meaning they are not affordable to most.
Director Leibish Polnauer tells Jeweller, “Pink diamonds have fared better than all other fancy colours [in terms of prices], but Argyle pink diamonds have had a real boom, with exceptional increases. Argyle diamonds were always considered rare and valuable, long before the news of the mine’s impending closure was announced.
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“Construction on the Argyle Mine commenced around 1984 and it gradually gained attention, but it wasn’t until Brisbane hosted The World Expo in 1988 that we saw a strong increase in enquiries [about pink diamonds],” says Calleija.
“This six-month event attracted more than 15 million visitors and fortunately Argyle shared news of their pink diamond discoveries for everyone to see.
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“My first job was to go all around the country and try and sell pink diamonds to jewellers – it was a fairly new thing, and it was difficult to get most jewellers to appreciate the value in a pink diamond.
“But as time went on, it started to take off as more jewellers took up pink diamonds, advertised and promoted them.”
Left to Right: LJ West earrings and bracelet; Calleija ring
Trends in demand
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“An invitation to view allows a time slot of approximately one hour in which to make bidding decisions.
“Despite this time constraint, the participants are seasoned professionals who know the range of pink diamond color appearances and how they relate to value. In any given city, the site remains unknown until just before the viewings,” they wrote.
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“We haven’t always been successful in our bids, but that’s more a function of how we bid and everybody else. We tend to purchase for stock, therefore we look very carefully at the items we bid on.
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“We want them to be uniquely special – stones with certain characteristics that make them stand out from even the other Tender diamonds.”
The announcement of the mine’s final closure date led to a spike in demand across the board.
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Maheshwari said the announcement “created hype to a different level”: “Even during the pandemic, the prices and demand were not affected, and they have started to appreciate drastically since mid-2020.
“Argyle pinks have become irreplaceable, and the increased ‘connoisseurship’ of Argyle pink diamonds has triggered a chain reaction that has sent prices for all categories into the clouds.
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“I think collectors and jewellery lovers were the original drivers of demand. More recently, the investor buyer has played a role and there have been areas of the market that catered to that. There’s a lot of pride in this product.
“Argyle stones over one carat are also in great demand and hardly available. We bought six stones over 1 carat at the 2020 Tender.”
Left to Right: Boodles ring; (top) Gimel brooch; (bottom) Pink Kimberley ring; Gimel brooch
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“We had known all along that the production would cease eventually, however the announcement put a finite ‘line in the sand’.”
He added, “Our company has participated in Argyle Premium [March] and Signature [main] Tenders for more than 20 years.
“Fortunately, this was only a temporary phenomenon and the demand surged shortly afterwards!”
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Glajz said consumer demand in 2020 came from both jewellery collectors and investors, and was amplified during the pandemic: “The demand from jewellery collectors was impacted by the cessation of international travel.
On the investor side, he notes, “[Argyle pink diamonds were] also aggressively presented by several non-jeweller companies as an ‘asset class’ and even as an alternative investment [to more traditional investment vehicles such as stocks and property] in order to appeal to a wider market.
Glajz adds,“One could draw a parallel with the fine art market; there are the buyers who purchase art for the simple love or decorative merits of the piece, and others who purchase for the perceived potential store of value and an eventual return on their investment.
“People started to look at pink diamonds as part of the portfolio for their self-managed super funds.
He adds, “We’ve seen a second wave in the last five years as some sellers of pink diamonds have targeted the investment angle.
Calleija puts the current demand split at 80 per cent jewellery lovers, and 20 per cent investors.
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“This has resulted in a strong increase in their value and interest among jewellery lovers and collectors,” he says.
Left to Right: Musson Necklace; Harry Winston Ring; Pink Kimberley Ring; Pink Starlet Necklace
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Adds West, “Once diamonds go into private hands, they re-enter that market at slow rates so we think its safe to assume the supply of Argyle pinks held by diamond companies will continue to decrease as time moves on and that will increase the price people want for their remaining stones.”
Bronstein observes that the industry must continue to support the pink diamond market. This education. Promotion must be maintained. It was sold in November 2020 by Sotheby’s for $US26.6 million. There are already creative marketers coming out with new ideas to capture the untapped customers,” he says.
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Colour diamonds currently account for less than 0.
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LJ West purchased its first Yakutia pink diamond in 2020, with Scott West telling JCK Online at the time, “Siberia has a lower quantity [than Argyle] but is still a somewhat consistent production… [And] because Siberia is so big, there is the potential to find new mines.”
“African and Russian pinks are also different in appearance, so if a person is looking for the strong raspberry tones Argyle is known for, they will have to look for old Argyle stock.
“To discover pink diamonds like this again is highly unlikely. Many expect this is the last generation to experience the privilege of mining pink diamonds.
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While no new stones will be coming from the mine, what has been extracted still gives many options to those seeking a fabulous stone.”
“There is no question that the beauty and rarity of the finest Argyle pink diamonds will always be appreciated by traders, collectors, and connoisseurs, but where the values will settle is impossible to predict.
“This work will provide significant economic opportunities, with our strong commitment to local content helping to ensure that the region benefits, particularly the traditional owner businesses and individuals. Its absence will be keenly felt, as much as its incredible legacy is assured.
A TENDER GLANCE
ARGYLE’S BREATH-TAKING TREASURES
3.14 CARATS
Argyle Alpha
2018 Tender
Won by Glajz
2.34 CARATS
Kimberley Rose
2018 Tender
Won by Leibish
2.28 CARATS
Argyle Muse
2.24 CARATS
Argyle Eternity
2020 Tender
Won by Kunming Diamonds
2.01 CARATS
Hidden Princess
2003 Tender
Won by LJ West Diamonds
2.00 CARATS
Argyle Amour
2009 Tender
Won by Glajz
1.56 CARATS
Argyle Phoenix
2013 Tender
Won by Glajz
1.21 CARATS
Argyle Cardinal
2014 Tender
Won by Glenn Bakker
1.20 CARATS
Argyle Prima
2015 Tender
Won by Sciens Diamond Management
1.04 CARATS
Red Valentine
2009 Tender
Won by Calleija
0.67 CARATS
Lot 56
2009 Tender
Won by RR Diamonds
0.33 CARATS
Mondial Red
2014 Tender
Won by Mondial Pink Diamond Atelier
A Moment with the Father of Australian Diamonds
INTERVIEW WITH EWEN TYLER, AM
It’s been a life’s journey. We constructed the mine. At one stage it was producing 40 per cent of the world’s natural diamonds. Brought it to production.
They might not have been top quality, but nevertheless, we had 10 times more diamonds in a tonne of rock than the average, so we were laughing really! It was a very, very exciting time – a once-in-a- lifetime affair. And really, from my 45th birthday when we found the first diamond, my life has never been quite the same. Without me starting it, it wouldn’t have gone anywhere!
What is your fondest memory from the project?
We’d found a few pieces of chrome diopside a few months before, but to actually find a sample not only with indicator minerals, but a diamond in it, Buy Diamonds Online Thailand showed we were on the right track.
The other great day was when we crushed the first tonne of ore.
Did you ever have any doubts, or any moments when it seemed like it might have all ended? There were a lot of hurdles. I’d more or less got my marching orders. If you can’t sell your product and everyone is against you, it’s hard to keep up enthusiasm. That was the first major hurdle -.
The government also tried to tell us we couldn’t do fly-in-fly-out, saying it would cost us $50 million to avoid building a town at the mine.
We could have walked then.
It was something that came out of the alluvial production, before we began mining. Bill Leslie [legal representative in the early years of the project] claims to have one of the first pink diamonds from Argyle but it was not something that we recorded because pinks were a very, very small percentage of the diamonds.
Talking about the pinks made people aware that we had a mine, and we only showed them once per year.
I am absolutely convinced there are more diamonds. It’s more about finding people who are willing to join this lunatic search! As they say, people who look for diamonds have rocks in their heads – but it’s a lot of fun.
» Read Ewen Tyler’s account of the diamond discoveries:
Mines and tribulations: Searching for Aussie diamond mines
A TIMELINE OF THE HISTORY OF ARGYLE
AND ITS SIGNATURE TENDERS
Geologist Ewen Tyler, employed by the London-based Tanganyika Holdings, requests the Perth office to design and cost a search program for diamond kimberlites in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, and forms the Kalumburu Joint Venture to fund the search
Reconnaissance sampling begins in the Kimberley
The first diamond is found, on the eve of Ewen Tyler’s 45th birthday
In August, samples procured by geologist Maureen Muggeridge at Smoke Creek reveal two diamonds; later that year, on 2 October, the Argyle kimberlite pipe is discovered between two ridges when geologist Frank Hughes notices a diamond sticking out of an ant hill
The first ore reserve is calculated, estimating 74 million tonnes with a grade of 6.7 carats of diamonds per tonne – the valuation of the total diamonds is $US3.25 billion
Diamond (Ashton Joint Venture) Agreement Act 1981 is enacted by the West Australian government, containing conditions such as building a town at the Argyle site (which could be delayed until 1987); 22.5 per cent net profit royalty; and an ad valorem royalty of 7.5 per cent
Final feasibility study and financing are completed, with at least $US175 million in debt from banks and a De Beers contract to buy all gem-quality diamonds, half the lower-quality stones and half the industrial goods, until 1991
1985
1st Tender
The first Argyle Tender takes place in Antwerp, Netherlands, with 33 stones on offer
Large-scale mining begins on the main ore body, and the Good Neighbour Agreement is signed with some traditional owners, and a direct sales office is opened in Antwerp
1986
2nd Tender
Geneva, Switzerland is added to the Argyle Tender viewing schedule
1987
3rd Tender
Setting a record that still stands today, 83 diamonds are offered at the Argyle Tender
A second direct sales office is opened in Mumbai
Jeweller Robert Mouawad buys the entire Tender collection of 43 pinks, three blues, and one fancy greyish-greenish yellow diamond
1991
7th Tender
A second contract is signed with De Beers, set to expire in 1996
1992
8th Tender
The Tender experiences a record number of bidders, with winners from 15 countries including US, UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Japan and Italy
1993
9th Tender
Robert Mouawad again buys the whole collection, totalling 46 diamonds, for $US2.25 million
The Argyle Mine’s annual production peaks, with 42 million carats recovered; the Indo-Argyle Diamond Council is founded to increase international demand for Argyle products cut and polished in India
1994
10th Tender
The Tender is viewed in Hong Kong and Singapore for the first time
1995
11th Tender
The Tender is viewed in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Geneva, with 180 bids received for the 47 diamonds on offer, generating US$4.5 million (or more than $US100,000 per carat)
1996
12th Tender
Perth and London are added as viewing locations
1997
13th Tender
The first Sydney viewing of the Tender is held; the Tender also beats its record total sale price with almost half the diamonds being 1 carat or larger, including the largest fancy purplish-red diamond ever graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
1998
14th Tender
New York is added as a viewing location, with the standout stone being Lot 62, a 2.66-carat heart-shaped fancy vivid purplish-pink
2001
17th Tender
The first stone over 4 carats is tendered, a 4.15-carat fancy intense purplish pink radiant
2008
24th Tender
Rio Tinto starts naming the ‘signature’ Tender stones
2009
25th Tender
The first Indian viewing of the Tender takes place in Mumbai, and blue diamonds are included for the first time with the 287-carat Once In A Blue Moon Collection
2010
26th Tender
Shanghai and Beijing become the first cities in Mainland China to host Argyle Tender viewings
2012
28th Tender
The Tender celebrates Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee by exhibiting at Kensington Palace in London
2014
30th Tender
The Tender breaks its highest average price per carat record on its 30th anniversary
2018
34th Tender
Highest average price per carat record is broken again
2019
35th Tender
Supplementing the main Tender, Rio Tinto offers the Pink Everlastings Collection, comprised of Argyle diamonds across the pink colour spectrum weighing 0.14 carats or less
2020
36th Tender
Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, selected buyers are invited to ‘virtually preview’ the penultimate Argyle Tender; 12 additional lots of curated ‘Petite Suites’ of never-before-seen diamonds are offered alongside the 62 main lots, contributing to the Tender delivering a ‘record-breaking’ result
Jeweller’s timelines are compiled through comprehensive research to demonstrate a full sequence of events.
They serve as a record of significant events within the watch and jewellery industry.
Where to now?
The ongoing quest for pink diamonds
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THE MASTERS OF BEAUTY
Visit Official Argyle Atelier Website
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