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A diamond is grown when a gas cloud of carbon hovers over a tiny diamond seed in a heated vacuum chamber, adding layers of crystal onto the seed.

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"Best Way To Buy Diamonds"Diamonds have long been considered extraordinarily valuable, and have been traded as a commodity for thousands of years.

A century before this, however, scientists began their quest to make diamonds in a lab. A diamond’s exceptional properties (it is one of the hardest natural material on the planet, the most effective heat conductor, and largely unaffected by most acids) make it ideal for drilling, grinding, and cutting. Physical chemist H. According to the New York Times, Hall’s knees buckled when he realized he had cracked the code.

Photo: Pure Grown/Brittany Holloway-Brown

The oil, mining, and space industries, which were using industrial diamond scraps from mines at the time, instantly saw the value of a new source for the material. Thanks to these innovations, diamonds now play a vital role in countless industries: electronics, construction, dentistry, weapons, even skincare. As Barron’s explained in 1960, “De Beers is impaled on the horns of a dilemma. Left to its own devices, it would prefer to keep its process in the laboratory stage, since large-scale production of synthetics inevitably will jeopardize present prices … However, in view of GE’s climbing output, De Beers yet may conclude that it cannot afford to leave the field of synthetics entirely to the American concern. GE’s issue was that these stones, made through the HPHT method, were extremely expensive to grow, says Russell Shor, a senior industry analyst with the GIA: “They used a colossal amount of energy and ending up not being commercially feasible because they cost more money to make than to sell.” Companies immediately bought lab-grown diamonds to incorporate into machinery and drill bits.

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“They are beautiful to look at, and you save 20 to 30 percent while you’re getting something every bit as nice, if not even nicer.”

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Scientists spent another several decades trying to hack the technique. By 2007, colorful lab-grown stones were being sold as an affordable jewelry alternative. Eventually it was discovered that brown diamonds could grow as yellow diamonds, as well as be treated to turn pink.

But as pretty as the pink and yellow stones were, companies were eager to soldier on towards the ultimate goal: creating colorless diamonds. “Colored, natural diamonds auction for outstanding prices, but in people’s minds, diamonds are clear,” explains Shor.'” It has 200 machines that work around the clock to grow diamonds, using a more advanced kind of CVD called microwave plasma chemical vapor deposition, or MPCVD. Pure Grown’s diamonds have “a high bling factor,” says Joel Kagan, the owner of Chicago’s Smart Jewelers, which started selling Pure Grown stones 18 months ago. “They are beautiful to look at, and you save 20 to 30 percent while you’re getting something every bit as nice, if not even nicer.”

Photo: Getty Images/Brittany Holloway-Brown

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It’s worth noting that shoppers have had access to diamond alternatives for years, and cost has always been their main appeal. But moissanite and cubic zirconia are chemically different than diamonds, and don’t quite look the same as a result; cubic zirconia has less brilliance, or sparkle, than diamonds and moissanite produces a blurred effect called a double refraction. Cubic zirconia, made of zirconium oxide, and moissanite, made of silicon carbide, began selling in the 1970s and 1990s respectively, after they were successfully created in labs.

Conversely, lab-grown diamonds are identical in structure and appearance to natural ones. Baruch says savings may be as high as 40 percent in some cases; this is especially appealing to savvy millennial shoppers. They are, however, much cheaper. We’re using 3-carat lab-grown diamonds and she’s saving over $30,000 by using them.”

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Starting a diamond lab isn’t particularly easy. Even if “the quality, ubiquity, and scale of production of synthetic stones” is “unprecedented” these days, as the Polygon report puts it, a single machine can cost up to half a million dollars. Companies must also invest in materials and a highly skilled workforce that includes physicists and chemists.

Still, the number of labs is growing. In addition to Pure Grown’s IIa Technologies, there’s Scio Diamonds in South Carolina, WD Lab Grown Diamonds near D.C., New Diamond Technology in Russia, Takara Diamonds in Washington state, and Chatham in California. There are several others, particularly in India and China, that are more tightlipped about their operations.

The industry has also piqued the interest of Silicon Valley. It also got attention in Hollywood circles last year when Leonardo DiCaprio announced his own investment in Diamond Foundry; the actor helped bring the issue of conflict diamonds – stones sold to fund rebel groups in African countries – into public consciousness with his 2006 drama Blood Diamond. Last year, former solar panel entrepreneurs started Diamond Foundry, a company which says it’s advanced the lab-growing technology so it can grow stones in as little as two weeks, as opposed to the standard six to 10. The company, which grows 2,000 carats a month, has backing from investors like Facebook co-founder Andrew McCollum, Twitter co-founder Evan Williams, Zynga co-founder Mark Pincus, former eBay President Jeff Skoll, and former Facebook COO Owen Van Natta.

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In addition to synthetic diamonds’ lower price point, some consumers are drawn to the stones for ethical reasons. It’s just a matter of time. The diamonds are beautiful, and often the quality is finer than a lot of the diamonds fashion jewelry uses.”

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While the category is growing, lab-grown diamonds currently represent less than 1 percent of the overall diamond industry, says Edahn Golan, a diamond industry analyst based in Israel. According to Golan, who has been working with retail measuring firm NPD Group to assess the industry’s finances, approximately $1 billion worth of lab-grown diamonds are said to be sold worldwide annually, as compared to the $22 billion mined diamonds bring in at wholesale price. Golan says 40 percent of global diamond sales come from the US: “The potential is huge.”

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Official numbers are hard to come by, though there have been some speculating reports. According to Bloomberg, 360,000 carats of lab-growns were made in 2014; research firm Frost & Sullivan believes the demand will jump to 20 million carats by 2026.

In addition to synthetic diamonds’ lower price point, some consumers are drawn to the stones for ethical reasons. Accusations of exploitation and inhumane working conditions in mines cast a dark shadow over the diamond industry. Mining is also said to be devastating to the environment, due to the amount of energy it requires, the potential for chemical leaks, and the harmful effects that removing large amounts of earth has on local ecosystems.

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Even with the implementation of a system like the Kimberley Process, a certification program established in 2003 that requires governments to verify that the diamonds they export are conflict-free, Diamond Foundry founder and CEO Martin Roscheisen says the mined diamond industry is one that has almost zero accountability.

Former Pure Grown CEO Lisa Bissell wears a synthetic diamond ring. Photo: Getty Images/Brittany Holloway Brown

“From the mine to the finger, a diamond sees four dozen owners,” he says. It’s hard to institute traceability to diamonds because the industry, which has a huge amount of corruption, amongst other things, doesn’t want their skeletons to be discovered.”

Industry experts also believe diamond mines won’t be sustainable for much longer. According to Polygon, “dwindling production at most major mines in these countries is forcing extraction companies to dig deeper, driving up production costs and shortening the lifespan of the mines.” Frost & Sullivan reports that global production of rough diamonds is declining, from 176.7 million carats in 2006, to 131 million carats in 2013. Excavation plans for new mines, Polygon notes, are being drawn with expectations that they won’t last more than 20 years because the industry will quickly suck them dry. Diamonds come mainly from nine countries: South Africa, Botswana, Angola, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Australia, Russia, and Canada.

The lab-grown sector certainly has a leg up in this regard. On a brochure American Grown Diamonds hands out on 47th Street, the company’s tagline reads: “Saving the earth, one diamond at a time.”

“The industry, which has a huge amount of corruption, amongst other things, doesn’t want their skeletons to be discovered.”

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“You have two diamonds: one comes from a clean laboratory, where everything is done precisely, and the other involves a lot of digging into the earth and has workers in not the best environments,” says Baruch. It’s eco-friendly and there are no negative connotations in the background.”

These ethical and environmental implications are what compelled Oaks Jewelers, a 68-year-old family business in the San Francisco Bay Area, to sell synthetics. “In a place like Berkeley, people are very eco-conscious and constantly ask about the origins of a stone. Initially there was hesitation because there’s this connotation that lab-grown means fake, but then we show them that the stones are identical, optically.”

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Small-scale operations aren’t the only ones hopping on the lab-grown bandwagon – jewelry giants are getting in on the action as well.

“Our objective is to give retail jewelers choices, and we recognized that they have an appeal to some customers,” he says. “There’s been a lot of hype surrounding lab-grown diamonds, and I think the hype is exceeding the demand. I’m not sure how big it is going to get, but we’re in it.”

Swarovski, another massive player in the jewelry market, has also stepped up to the plate.

“Initially there was hesitation because there’s this connotation that lab-grown means fake, but then we show them that the stones are identical, optically. As a company representative told Bloomberg last year, “De Beers’ focus is on natural diamonds. We would not do anything that would cannibalize that industry.”

Swarovski also declined to comment about these discussions, but Even-Zohar maintains that “De Beers’ long-awaited participation in the gem-quality synthetics market can no longer be far off.” In an email to Racked, De Beers denied it will start selling lab-grown diamonds for jewelry at any point in the future, writing that according to company research, “consumers do not see synthetic diamonds as potential substitutes for diamonds” and that De Beers believes lab-growns will soon be “purchased as costume jewelry.

“Lab-grown diamonds have been on our radar for quite some time, so we finally decided to test consumer acceptance,” says Cohen. “Our target audience for Diama is the fashion-aware, self-purchasing woman, and we certainly think there’s significant potential behind this.”

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Other jewelers are far more skeptical. Another jeweler on 47th likened synthetic companies to “cheaters.”

“It’s not a question of whether or not I like lab-grown diamonds – the technology and knowledge is here, so what are we going to do about it?

“You have to remember that people in jewelry have millions and millions of dollars worth of mined diamonds in their inventory,” she says. “If you have a vault full of stuff while there’s an option that is prettier, less expensive, and has a better story than a blood diamond, that’s pretty intimidating. They are frightened.”

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For Stuller, Zale says, sitting on the sidelines is no longer an option: “It’s not a question of whether or not I like lab-grown diamonds – the technology and knowledge is here, so what are we going to do about it?”

“Do you see that? Here, I’ll focus a little closer. We are looking for any growths or shadows that indicate how this diamond could have been formed.

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“This stone has a shape in it, a bow-tie shape. It goes wide at the left, and narrow in the middle, wide at the right,” he says, peering through a microscope, looking at a bright diamond that is just under one carat. “In this case, it tells us that the crystal grew in a way that nature cannot.

Photo: Getty Images/Brittany Holloway-Brown

As the industry grows, so does the concern that lab-grown diamonds will be sold dishonestly. Peppering is also an ongoing problem in India’s gem-cutting center Surat, according to the Times of India.

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Jewelers are now starting to catch onto fraud.

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“The diamond industry is a business that is based on honesty, so there needs to be a strong trust factor,” says Geller. “If you lose the trust of the public, you lose everything.

“The diamond industry is a business that is based on honesty, so there needs to be a strong trust factor. If you lose the trust of the public, you lose everything.”

“We felt it was important for people in the market to be fully transparent, to promote their material as truly lab-grown, and to be differentiated from the mined diamonds,” says Richard S.

“They refuse to use the proper terminology for lab-growns, which is confusing to the consumer,” says Garard. “Synthetic is the terminology used for cubic zirconia and moissanite, which are not diamonds at all.”

“The scientific definition of synthetic in gemology is a manmade stone which has organic physical and optical properties as a natural stone,” says Shor. “A lot of people equate the word synthetic with fake, so I personally can understand their reluctance, but we go with the science.

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“Part of this is consumer protection,” Shor explains. “If synthetic diamonds are graded the same way, reports could end up online, being sold as natural diamonds.”

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This is the diamond industry, though – an industry that is inundated with suspicious rumor-mongering. Roscheisen, Diamond Foundry’s CEO, claims the GIA employs such tactics at the request of De Beers; the GIA denies this accusation, stating it’s “a third-party nonprofit organization with no financial interest in the stones it evaluates.

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Photo: Getty Images/Brittany Holloway-Brown

“We’ve heard of lab-grown diamonds being pushed as natural, but all of our members sign a pledge to be totally transparent, so don’t pick on us!” he exclaims. “We don’t think that’s right, and it’s not in our best interest either to have somebody out there trying to sell lab-grown as real. We’re in the same market and we should coexist. He’s turned the conversation, as trade industry magazine JCK reports, into a “war.

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“Natural diamonds have consistently served as a store of value for hundreds of years and consumers mistakenly believe the same of synthetics,” he writes. “Consumers have a right to know what they are buying. Do they know that the value of synthetics is unsustainable and that the price they paid will fall sharply in the years ahead? Would they buy synthetic diamonds at anywhere near natural diamond prices if they knew the facts? … The woman expects the man to give her something valuable that retains value just like their relationship. Snapchat Millennials or not, getting engaged to be married is not about creating a snap-relationship with a snap-synthetic diamond that does not retain value. That bad-mouthing the diamond industry could hurt Africa’s economy is a concern that’s been held by leaders like former Botswanan president Festus Mogae and Nelson Mandela, who worked with De Beers to communicate his apprehension when Blood Diamond hit theaters.” However, the actor seems to have changed his tune since then, which Rapaport takes issue with.

“One and a half million diggers support an additional seven million people by digging for diamonds,” writes Rapaport. Their primary daily concern is getting food to feed their children … Instead of using your fame and fortune to help these diamond diggers and their families, you and your company are falsely claiming that it is more ethical to buy your synthetic diamonds than their natural diamonds. And you are calling it ethical. You are literally taking bread out of the mouths of the poorest people on earth. That is super wrong.”

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This is a sentiment Roscheisen calls “bullshit. “But that is the most disingenuous argument in the history of mankind. Industrial mining happens at a scale unlike any other human activity; it is the most profitable industry in the world. It’s pretty stunning that anyone would try to make that argument.” The mining industry enslaves people while the profits all go to government officials, who keep miners in poverty.

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“There’s a certain irony in the lab-grown biz. They keep trading on how it’s so ethical, and cleaner, but then what are they all hiding?”

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Still, there is room for other critiques.

“The vast majority of diamonds are mined in places where responsible business practices have been put in place for the workers,” she says. “These practices include building and supporting communities around many of the mines where families can thrive with schools, infrastructure, hospitals, and access to healthcare. Our supporters are working diligently to improve the situations and conditions of others around the world through many different types of initiatives. Many are privately funded, many work in concert with governments and NGOs. Not enough is said about these positive impacts. This is a concern publications like JCK have raised before.

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Two years ago, Jewelers Vigilance Committee president and CEO Cecilia Gardner told JCK And as JCK

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“Unless they claim to be using solar or wind power, they are not carbon-neutral,” Schupak says. “And it takes a lot of energy to do what needs to be done to make a diamond.”

So far, little research has been done on what actually goes on in these labs.” But University of Vermont professor Saleem Ali writes in his report “Ecological Comparison of Synthetic versus Mined Diamonds” that “this data may be misleading because we do not have any accurate metrics of the raw material used to make the synthetic diamonds” since lab procedures are labeled proprietary and are not shared with the public. The industry’s lack of disclosure leaves people like Michelle Graff, who covers the industry for the trade site National Jeweler, dubious.

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“There’s a certain irony in the lab-grown biz. They keep trading on how it’s so ethical, and cleaner, but then what are they all hiding?” she asks. “The mined industry is constantly under scrutiny to share and disclose, why shouldn’t they do the same?”

It goes without saying that lab-growing will only become more sophisticated and cheaper in the coming years, and that accountability will have to follow. The unsatisfying answer is: nobody knows. Will natural diamonds still retain their value? But what happens when synthetic diamonds flood the market?

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Natural diamonds companies, for their part, are taking preventative measures to ensure they don’t get edged out. Last week at the jewelry trade show JCK Las Vegas, synthetics were a hot topic – and not just because so many lab-grown companies attended the event. There’s no mention of synthetics in the release, but it’s clear the tagline implies that lab-grown diamonds aren’t “real.” On the first day of the show, a newly-formed alliance of natural diamond companies called the Diamond Producers Association unveiled a new marketing slogan: “Real is Rare.” The campaign, which goes live in September, targets young shoppers who crave real products “in a world of superficial interactions,” according to a press release the DPA put out.

And then there are the jewelers, waiting with bated breath to see if seemingly ambivalent shoppers in fact prefer one type of diamond to the other. For every customer browsing 47th Street who seems intrigued, there are several who scoff at the idea.

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