Learn the facts about synthetic or natural diamonds. Understand the differences. Make an informed choice.

Alice Rochester

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30 Nov 2018

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What are they? The word ‘diamond’ actually means a naturally formed gemstone. So some are saying that these synthetic stones shouldn’t be called diamond at all. Some are calling them ‘lab created diamond’ but we have been advised to call them ‘synthetic diamonds’ for the moment because that is how we normally refer to other man made versions (e.g. synthetic sapphires). We have always been very careful about how we describe our gemstones. Are aware of how misleading language can be.

Unlike diamond simulants like cubic zircon or synthetic moissanite which look similar to white diamonds but are chemically different, synthetic diamonds are real diamonds but they have been produced in a laboratory in the space of weeks or months rather than deep underground over the course of millions of years. They have good clarity because there are no impurities present while the crystal is forming. They can be treated to change into different colours.

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People are asking about them for three different reasons

1. They are concerned about the environmental and ethical consequences of mining for new stones

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We’re always really pleased to have conversations about the ethics of our jewellery and are more than happy to work with both synthetic diamonds and natural mined stones. Both are interesting ethical options and we feel that it’s important to be able to offer both, depending on a customer’s own sense of what is right for them. Many people are aware that mining is a dirty business. That huge amounts of rock need to be mined to get a small number of diamonds.

Whilst synthetic stones (laboratory grown) are traceable and we know they are created in more wealthy countries where health and safety standards and employment laws are strict, Which Jewelry Stores Buy Diamonds (https://diamonds.backtoglamour.com/2024/11/16/it-is-the-aspect-of-excessive-best-place-to-buy-diamonds-in-the-world-not-often-seen-but-that-is-why-is-required/) we are very aware that this only tackles a small part of the ethical dilemma. Wouldn’t be able to support their families so we are currently working on a project to try to source traceable diamonds mined by artisans… As a company we believe in trying to support those at the bottom of the diamond supply chain who have no option other than to make a living by mining. We feel that if we were to only buy synthetic diamonds – right here – these people would have no other work. Mining supports millions of people all over the world who often have no other access to employment.

2. They think they’re going to be significantly cheaper

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Growing synthetic diamonds takes a huge amount of sustained energy over a course of weeks or months; the smallest fluctuation in heat or pressure could be disastrous for the growth of the crystal. Recently however the prices of synthetic diamonds have risen, yet this is the result of marketing hype so we predict that they will fall again. We actually have some synthetic diamonds that we bought last year that we have had to reduce in price as their value has gone down already. As such, larger stones in particular are sometimes more expensive than anticipated. The technology behind the creation of synthetic gemstones is improving rapidly, which means that (in contrast with natural diamonds whose value will increase) prices for synthetic stones are coming down. This is great for customers who don’t like the idea of new mining as it is making things more accessible; however it does mean their jewellery is likely to devalue. For those who would like to buy a fun piece of dress jewellery for themselves, this may be beneficial.

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3. The person has a science background and likes the idea of crystal growth in a lab

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Of course if somebody has a background in science then it’s lovely to know that we can help them to tell their story by sourcing a really special synthetic gemstone for them.

Identification A starter ‘seed’ is put under high pressures. Temperatures in a similar way to what would have happened in the earth. Because this happens so much more quickly than in nature, if you look closely enough under a microscope you can see that crystal structure and growth patterns within a synthetic stone are very different to those in a natural one. This process effectively microwaves a gas that contains carbon (like methane). The resulting carbon atoms are attracted downwards to create flat plates of diamond.

We can easily pick out diamond stimulants from real diamonds, either just through experience of looking at these stones or checking them more closely under magnification and / or with a thermal tester, but even experts can’t tell the difference between diamonds that occur naturally and those grown in a lab without some quite sophisticated testing equipment. For this reason, there is concern that synthetic diamonds are getting mixed in with naturally occurring stones by unscrupulous dealers. Steffi says:

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“The M-Screen+ is a highly advanced screening machine that detects synthetic diamonds that are now becoming more commonly mixed into parcels of natural diamonds. Melee (tiny, facetted diamonds) is poured in to the top of the machine and scanned incredibly quickly – a minimum of 3-4 diamonds are scanned every second which means up to 15,000 per hour at top speed! It can identify round brilliant melee from 0.005ct up to 0. We are confident that the melee we use has already been scanned but we want to be able to demonstrate that we are conscious of this challenge to the diamond industry. It will mean that we can check diamonds that have been brought to us by a customer from an old piece of jewellery and will ultimately give our customers peace of mind knowing that we are putting these practices in to place.”

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So, is it better to use natural or synthetic stones in your bespoke commission?

As we have mentioned, we are more than happy to work with both synthetic and natural diamonds depending on the customer’s preference, and ensure that we are always open and honest about exactly what we are using. Whilst we might prefer to use natural diamonds because we feel this is the best ethical option we are aware that not everyone shares this view and are open minded enough to recognise this. We relish developments in technology that are leading to better traceability in the diamond industry. In the creation of synthetic diamonds too – please feel free to ask us about it! We have in-depth conversations with our customers about what is right for them, including discussions around mining practices as well as the depreciation in price of synthetic stones.